During a recent visit with a friend, the two of us found out he had some unplanned days off that we could take advantage of together. We tried to decide where and how to best spend them. Athens, Tanzania, Crete — all my ideas were shot down because he doesn’t like to repeat destinations.
Finally, I remembered a previous conversation we’d had. Although we’ve both visited Italy before, neither of us had seen Cinque Terre– the five famous interconnected Italian villages.
I’m not sure about the rest of the world, but most when most Americans think of Italy, we picture that classic shot of Cinque Terre.
We see the colorful houses on the side of the cliff with the ocean spraying against the rocks below. Usually the photo is taken at sunset. Gorgeous. Classic.
But was this the reality when we visited? Yes and no.
Yes it’s gorgeous, and I was even able to get that iconic photo I was hoping for:
I also managed to capture a new classic version of the same photo that did quite well on Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLOVWRvB-n_/?taken-by=foodieflashpacker
But are there other parts of Italy that are as gorgeous? I would say yes.
But what you can’t see from that photo is that Cinque Terre is overrun with tourists. It’s difficult to get a decent shot of anything because of the unrelenting sea of selfie sticks. And we even visited in October, outside of peak season.
And yes I understand that I’m one of those tourists, essentially a part of the problem.
But the place was crowded to the point of being no longer enjoyable. We were packed into the train only to be let out like cattle leaving the pen.
Many of the best restaurants in town had long waits for a table. And since I’m talking about the restaurants, let me mention the food–it wasn’t that great. The restaurants seemed more geared towards tourists. The dishes we had, although beautiful, were poor versions of Italian food. The meals like we had in Pisa and Florence were nowhere to be found.
Admittedly, we did find some gorgeous, quiet spots when we ventured away from the main area. This small alleyway was thankfully free of tourists.
Frustrated and defeated, we sought out one of the few things you can always count on. My friend unknowingly snapped this shot of me. I feel it nicely sums up our Cinque Terre experience:
In the end, would I advise against going? No, it really is beautiful and definitely worth a visit. But I would recommend that you manage your expectations when planning the trip. Cinque Terre would make a nice day trip from Pisa. It’s also possible to visit Cinque Terre on a day trip from Florence, although it would be a long day and require changing trains multiple times.
I would, however, advise against visiting Italy just to see Cinque Terre, like I had once planned. I’m glad we also chose to see Pisa and Florence on the same trip.
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Practical Information:
Getting there:
From Florence: You’ll want to leave Florence as early as possible, as travel time is two-and-a-half to three hours each way. It also may not be possible to see all five villages in one day. Depart Florence to Pisa where you will change trains to La Spezia. When you reach La Spezia, you will transfer to a regional train, which will take you to Cinque Terre. Train schedules can be found here.
From Pisa: It’s possible to see all five villages in a single day trip from Pisa. I would advise starting with the northern most village (Monterosso) and working your way back towards Pisa, ending in the southern most village (Riomaggiore). Multiple trains depart from Pisa to La Spezia daily. The trip takes approximately an hour and a half. Schedules can be verified up to seven days in advance by clicking here.
Always be sure to validate your tickets before the train departs.
It’s sad to hear that Cinque Terre is getting WAY too crowded. I heard they were going to start limiting how many people could visit per year too, but not sure if that’s true. I went back in 2007 and I think this must have been before it was wildly popular because we really didn’t experience crowds or anything, we pretty much had it to ourselves. I would love to revisit, but not to be disappointed with how much it’s changed since I remember it!
Megan, I went in 2007 too and it felt “undiscovered”. I went again a few years later and it was totally different. Both times I went in high season of July too!
I totally agree with everything you said about CT. My experience was unfortunately very similar. I am glad I went, and got some great photos, but often the photos don’t quite match with the vision we have in our minds (similar to my take on Santorini) thanks to throngs of visitors. I did find that when we went to some of the smaller towns in the area, we had a better experience. We made a point to walk away from the crowds and were able to find some authentic restaurants (no English menus, haha). We also did a day hike up around the area, and there was nobody else around. However, I agree… don’t go to Italy for Cinque Terre alone. It will disappoint.
I wish I had gone with more time to explore the surrounding towns like you did because I think it would have really changed my experience. Like you, I’m glad I went, got the pics, but I won’t be running back anytime soon.
My sister and I went briefly in 2006, but wish we would have stayed longer. But I can only imagine how busy It is getting with tourists. It is such a pretty town though. But you’re right, there are many other places that are beautiful and not as busy!
And I always want to discover the next “it” place no one is not yet talking about. As beautiful as it is the word is definitely out about that place.
Sad truth; crowds always ruin a moment. And this is even more annoying when we’re ourselves part of this crowd. I understand your disappointment. Thanks for sharing the truth!
I know, I appreciate the irony being a tourist and complaining about tourists lol!
Great post. Like lots of ‘must see’ romantic destinations, when you get there it seems as if the rest of the world has joined you. Rome is similar, you see the pictures but in reality most attractions are surrounded by disinterested teenage school parties with oversized backpacks.
I haven’t been to Rome in years! When I went it was my first trip to Europe and I remember it being almost magical. Now, maybe I would see things differently!
This is a UNESCO heritage site, right? The scenes are simply gorgeous particularly the colorful cluster of buildings. I had driven through this place way back in 2010, don’t have enough pics so I really enjoyed seeing these.
Yes, I believe it is. Thank you for saying that! I was happy w/the photos from that day for sure!
I think a lot of beautiful places are ruined by crowds. But you can’t deny the magic to Cinque Terra. It’s still so charming!
Definitely! And I know it’s also ironic for me to complain about tourists when I am a tourist there myself but I hadn’t mentally prepared myself for that many of us all at once!
Interesting, I went to Cinque Terre in the summer years ago and didn’t find it terribly crowded. I did, however, absolutely hate Pisa – overrun with tourists and tourist shops and awful food! Funny that you preferred the food in Pisa!
It’s all about perspective I suppose! I would run back to Pisa just for that meal alone.
Wow….look at those colors. A classic one. Have seen that shot many times but never gets old. Would love to visit that place.
Thank you! Even though I didn’t love the day I was pretty happy with the photos. They turned out quite nice!
I’m sorry you didn’t have a great time there. I loved my trip personally. Everything seemed to go wrong but it was one of my best trips. I went during the week in Spring, so maybe that was why it was less crowded.
I love that even though so many things went wrong that you still loved the trip. That’s awesome. I would love to go back during the spring.
I’ve heard that is its really overrun with tourists and somewhere I read they are thinking of doing a lottery system to go there, which would cap the amount of visitors. Haven’t seen any updates on that so I don’t know what they decided. It surely is a beautiful spot. Sorry to hear about the food, that would be a HUGE disappointment for me.
Yes, the food was just adding insult to injury at that point!
Thanks for sharing! It’s refreshing to hear your honest opinion on a place that is normally so well revered by many people. I would still love to visit one day despite the large amount of tourists.
Thank you! I would definitely say still visit, maybe if you’re already in Italy. I don’t know that I would go specifically for CT.
We spent a day exploring and hiking here, and while it was absolutely gorgeous, we were so glad we stayed just outside in the peace and quiet of Framura. I’ve heard they are cutting the number of tourists allowed through next year, which is a good thing. I think it is a love-hate relationship balancing tourism dollars and just plain tourism. But it is an area so worth seeing at least once.
If I go back that’s probably what I should do. I would love to do the hike.
I missed going to Cinque Terre on my fist trip to Italy and its on my bucket list, after reading your post I am def. not going to go out of my way to see Cinque Terre, thank you!
If/when you return to Italy maybe go as a day trip but I wouldn’t go back just for CT.
Is Cinque Terre more crowded than Florence and Pisa?!
Well, what one could expect out of a tourist place but to be overrun by tourists! 😉
Anyway, I like the photo of the alleyway. It is so charming!
Thanks for sharing this less popular take on Cinque Terre. It’s always been on my bucket list but I’ve ever been a fan of crowds and super touristy areas, so that’s something I am definitely glad to know about. I’m glad you discussed this since it’s not what I usually hear about Cinque Terre.
You’re welcome! I hope you get to make it one day but maybe now you’ll be able to go with managed expectations. It really is gorgeous.
This was such an interesting perspective about travel, especially in a famous tourist destination like Cinque Terre. It’s ironic, isn’t it? Tourists visit a place because of its beauty and ends up ruining it. That’s why I try to explore lesser known destinations since they are not as crowded.
Yes, it’s the sad truth. It is beautiful though- I get the appeal for sure.
I’m just curious, what month did you go? Selfie sticks are awful and I hope they continue to be banned in several notable attractions around the world! Thanks for your honesty 🙂
I was there at the beginning of October. I had hoped since it was shoulder season it would be a bit better but maybe I should try in the middle of winter!
Wow, what a read. I had recently added this to my bucket list for exactly what you said, those perfect photos. Sorry to see it didn’t measure up. Bad or not what I expected food would be a big let down in a country like Italy. thanks for sharing. Your pictures were superb!
Thank you! At least I did get the good photos. I want to frame a few of them!
Oh! What a colorful town , especially seen thru a wine glass 😉 . I had heard of Cinque Terre but so far never got a chance to go . Last time we were in Italy it was before the age of Digital camera 🙁 We did only Rome and Venice and an unplanned halt at Genoa.
I was there years ago before I had an appreciation of food and wine so this trip was much better. I could go back to Italy again and again and never get tired of it.
Thank you for the heads up. It’s high in my bucket list but now I’ll regulate my expectations. Love your instagram photo.
Great post as usual Nathan! I really want you to come back so that I can take you to Levanto or Lerici, or even Portovenere where we typically stay while discovering this area of Liguria. Unfortunately mass tourism has hit Cinque Terre hard, and it’s exasperated these tiny little towns to the point of no return. Are they worth seeing? Sure, but it’s so much better to hire a little boat from Levanto and drop by and check them out OR come in off season. We had the most amazing marinated anchovies in Portovenere and beautiful focaccia dripping with homemade pesto, good food can be found..
You wouldn’t have to twist my arm to get me to come back so we could check out those areas! I’ll be in Europe all summer again this year- I really hope we get to hangout again while I’m there, if not before!
I’m Italian too and live in Liguria, the region of Cinque Terre. Yes you are right, Cinque Terre are the most famous destination we have in our region but are a big challenge. Details are fundamental to be able to visit them in the right way: to be in the right place at the right time can make the difference to avoid group of tourists from cruise ships! That’s why in my opinion the best thing is to visit them with a local insider that will make you discover secret corners and untouched spots (yes, they still exists!). I wouldn’t advice to visit the area in one day but to take more time and explore the beautiful surroundings. Portovenere is gorgeous but you have to go beyond and discover Sestri Levante (great hotels there!), the authentic fisherman’s village of Camogli and, if you want a bite of authentic Italy, come till Genoa and you’ll fall in love with it.
I think I’m convinced that I’ll have to plan a return trip to further explore the area. This trip we were a bit tight on time but I would love to come back when time wasn’t such an issue and explore deeper!
Despite my name, I am italian and the Cinque terre are among my favourite places in Italy. But, yes, you are right, they are terribly overcrowded these days. It’s a problem that will have to be tackled somehow.
I agree with Georgette, a base in Levanto is a great idea. Then you can go to Cinqueterre walking to Monterosso, by boat, train (though often full) or you can explore by bike the town to the west of Levanto, really beautiful. And there are also Portovenere and Tellaro in eastern Liguria, among my favourites.
Portovenere in particular is gorgeous.
I’ve heard similar stories and that makes me sad because I’ve been wanting to visit Cinque Terre. I hear that neighboring towns have more charm and fewer tourists. I think I’ll check out other options and just make Cinque a day trip and not the main destination. Thanks for the great info and loved your IG pic from a different perspective.
Check out some of the comments on this post from friends/readers that live in the area. There’s lots of great advice on visiting the region. I think I’ll have to make a trip back to explore their suggestions!
The scenery is totally stunning, especially the seaside cliffs. Although the town looks crowded from afar, we love the rustic look on street level. Perfect for a wine-and-cheese date with a fiery sunset in the background. 🙂
For sure! I love wine and cheese anytime, especially with a sunset behind it!
Cinque Terre is really a dream kinda place. I have read many posts about it and I understand it has become too touristy. I also know that there are a few places near Cinque Terre which are as fascinating if not more and relatively secluded.
This is how we felt about Florence, actually. It didn’t seem like an authentic Italian city anymore, it was so overrun with tourists, and expensive to boot. We had some great food there, no doubt, but I’ll not be returning, that’s for sure! And this is with us spending many hours/days traversing back streets, trying to find some semblance of local life. We didn’t succeed, needless to say! I think because soo many people have such a romanticized notion of Italy that unfortunately many places there are just not what they used to be. I’ve heard friends say similar things about Venice and Rome as well!
That’s so unfortunate! I had such a completely different experience in Florence. A fellow blogging friend of mine lives there and took us out for an amazing meal. It’s true there were a lot of tourists but I was still struck by how gorgeous the city is. The architecture is stunning. I loved both Rome and Venice as well.
It is a sad reality for this area. We’ve hyped it up too much and now it’s overrun by tourism. It’s really too bad for the people who live there. It’s time to move on now… there are so many other great places to go.
So, you were in CT a day or two. How many restaurants did you go to?
I understand you did not have the best experience in your eyes, but how can you say out of the dozens and dozens of restaurants in CT that good food was “nowhere to be found.” You only tried a few. I’ve been to CT twice and found several wonderful restaurants – as well as some so-so places, just like any touristy town.
“Many of the best restaurants in town had long waits for a table. And since I’m talking about the restaurants, let me mention the food–it wasn’t that great. The restaurants seemed more geared towards tourists. The dishes we had, although beautiful, were poor versions of Italian food. The meals like we had in Pisa and Florence were nowhere to be found.”
Anyway, I don’t mean to bash your article, but as a travel writer myself, I always hate to see someone stereotype a whole town or region based on just a few isolated experiences. Thanks for your blog – I enjoy it and always learn something new.
So beautiful. I wonder if there is a certain time of day or year that would be better to visit. I would love to go there one day. Thank you for sharing your experience.
If I went back I would go at sunrise before the tourists showed up!
Thanks for your honest take on Cinque Terre, it’s good for travelers new to the area to get a true picture of the reality of gorgeous places like this.
I had a similar experience in Florence when we went back in summer 2017, right after staying in some lovely hilltop towns in Tuscany and Umbria. I think how long you spend, what time of year and what you did before and after a destination make a big impact on your personal experience. Florence hit us in the face on our arrival with the amount of Day-Tripping tourists there, so we headed out to wander Chianti during the day and returned in the evening to a quieter, more charming Florence.
This Christmas on our family trip to Italy, due to covid and winter, both Rome and Florence were fabulously NOT crowded. We fell in love with them all over again, enjoying the sites and beautiful architecture without having to fight the selfie-takers to get a good photo. The drizzle and cooler temps were definitely worth it!
We will be based in the Garfagnana for two months this September (north of Lucca) and plan to visit some of the towns in Liguria while there since it is so close. I will do my research and make sure to stay in one of the quieter towns now!
P.S. We can blame Rick Steves for the mass tourism in Cinque Terre 🙂
I watched his travel program about Cinque Terre, and he actually apologized to the viewers for promoting it so much over the years since his discovery of the area in his post-college travel days.
Linda, thank you for such a lovely comment.
I also did not love Florence the first time I went and now it’s one of my favorite cities in Europe! One of my friends has a website (girlinflorence.com) and she lived in Florence for more than 10 years until recently. If you’re a lover of Florence you should definitely check out her site.
I wish I had been able to enter Europe two summers ago during covid. My friends that did were able to take some gorgeous photos with no crowds.
I’m sure Mr. Steves meant no harm but I’ve heard from multiple people that he’s to blame! Imagine having that much influence…
Thanks for the honesty and as you mentioned, managing travelers’ expectations. We were thinking of visiting in Fall of 2022 but instead opted for a less touristy area closer to Genoa, and we were so happy we did.
We stayed in Camogli, a beautiful little coastal town near Portofino. Wonderful “ambiente”, and the seafood – magnifico!
I loved it so much I wrote an article about it!
Yes there are tourists in the busy summer season, but more commonly European travelers and expats. In early November it was fairly quiet, still with a lovely vibe. Highly recommend this area for a more authentic experience.