I’ve found one of my new favorite things in life– aperitivos. Specifically, aperitivos from Mercado de San Fernando in Madrid.
It’s really everything I like all at once: sitting around gossiping talking with a bunch of friends, trying a bunch of new foods, and drinking. I don’t know how I didn’t know about this before.
Aperitivos is kind of like a Spanish-style brunch. You can technically do it any day of the week, but it’s most popular on the weekends.
And while you can find aperitivos spots all over town, and I have tried several, my favorite was Mercado de San Fernando. That was where it felt the most authentic, as it was (very) crowded with locals. We even toured another market during my walking food tour of Madrid, but that one was more aimed at tourists, in my opinion.
Mercado de San Fernando is centrally located in Madrid’s Lavapiés neighborhood. In addition to selling food, the market also sells crafts, and there are multiple bookstores– one even sells books by their weight!
While in Madrid, don’t miss out on activities that will help immerse yourself with the city (hurry while they’re hot!):
- Madrid Tapas Night Walking Tour
- Full Day Tour Ávila and Segovia from Madrid with Tickets to Monuments Included
- Flamenco Show at Corral de la Morería in Madrid with Optional Dinner
The Best Aperitivos at Mercado De San Fernando
So here’s how aperitivos works- during the week, the market sells typical items that you expect– fresh fruits, meats, cheeses, etc. But on the weekends, it becomes more of an eating market.
You and your friends come in, choose a bar to grab drinks at, and secure your spot.
You then order small plates from the bar you’re at, or even better, send a few friends out to gather food for the group.
It’s better not to order everything from one place, as each vendor has its own specialty.
You might grab the croquettes from one stall,
but the blood sausage over fries with an egg from a different one.
The stall around the corner had the best-looking octopus (pulpo a la gallega)
but the stand nearest the entrance had meatballs I couldn’t pass up.
You couldn’t come all the way to Spain and not enjoy jamón Iberico (ham). But, if you’re going to have ham, you’ll probably have to find some cheese as well.
Eventually, your table will look something like this:
And as you sit around drinking, chatting, and snacking, you may end up staying long enough that you need a second round. Then, your table ends up looking something like this:
Sitting around, catching up with old friends, making new ones, snacking on delicious fresh local specialty foods, and washing it all down with beer, wine, or sangria.
I don’t know why it took me so long to discover aperitivos, but now that I know about it, I hope to make it a part of my weekend ritual whenever possible.
Practical Information: Mercado de San Fernando (San Fernando Market) is located at Calle Embajadores 41 in Madrid, Spain. Several metro lines service the area, but the nearest stop from most directions is the Lavapiés line.
Don’t expect to find menus in English, but many of the stall owners speak at least some English. Worst case scenario, you can do what I did and dust off your rusty high school Spanish (and when that fails, point). Because each stall seems to specialize in one thing, you can also just point at what everyone else seems to be ordering or walking away with.
No one seemed to know the exact hours of the market, but when the business started dwindling around 5, stall owners began shutting down. I would plan to arrive in plenty of time for a 5-5:30 finish time.
There is a website in Spanish you can check here for more information.
Travel writer and owner of the blog. My work has been featured on Fodors, Eater.com, International Living, and Great Escape Publishing, among many others. My story? Nearly six years ago, I left my job at an Oklahoma City law firm and embarked on a journey around the world. At the time, I thought I would only be gone for 6 months, but the more I traveled, the longer my bucket list became. Flashpacker describes how I travel. Rather than traveling as the normal world wise backpacker and staying in hostel dorms, I prefer a more comfortable experience, and typically stay in private rooms, take Ubers instead of taxis, and now use a suitcase instead of a backpack. Foodie, on the other hand, describes one of the key reasons why I travel. I love to pick a central “base camp” and then explore the surrounding area, really immersing myself in the culture and interacting with the people, and enjoying and exploring the food of an area is an essential part of this experience.
Monday 7th of August 2017
Those meatballs look incredible! I love the idea of a market which turns into a brunch spot on the weekends - what a great spot for aperitivos! Thanks for the tip on Mercado de San Fernando, will definitely visit when in Madrid. I love that it's crowded with locals, I love discovering authentic gems :)
Thursday 3rd of August 2017
Oh my! What a tasty weekend it turned out to be. Those croquettes and meatballs...nom. Thanks for sharing and making me hungry. :)
Thursday 3rd of August 2017
i love this idea! food is such a great wat to soak in the local culture when travelling!
Wednesday 2nd of August 2017
Is this something specific to Madrid? We have been to Catalonia and Andalusia, but never saw anything like this!
Wednesday 2nd of August 2017
OMG! This post makes me so hungry and I just finished eating! Can't wait to do some food exploring with you sometime. Great photos by the way!